Solo-hiking the Laugavegur Trail in Iceland
A guide to hike from Landmannalaugar to Thorsmörk in three days — including price information, packing list and my personal experiences along one of the prettiest trails in the world.
* This post includes some sponsored products.
Doing a multi-day-hike all by myself for the first time ever wasn’t exactly what I planned for my 6th and most recent trip to Iceland in June-July 2024. But then the weather forecast was just TOO good to NOT at least try it. And so I ended up sitting at the campground, doing excessive research & booking the highland bus to the trail head — all rather spontaneous. And because I struggled with finding some specific information I would’ve loved to know before:
Here’s all (I think) you need to know — everything I found out beforehand, experienced during the days on the trail or would recommend now that I finished it. Enjoy!
Planning & Safety
Hiking Season
First things first: Hiking the Laugavegur Trail is only possible within the very short Icelandic summer season (roughly from the end of June till the middle of September). The opening season of the trail can vary from year to year, but July and August should be safe. I did the hike from June 29th till July 1st.
Hiking Direction
There’s two ways to hike the Laugavegur:
From Landmannalaugar (A) to Thorsmörk (B):
Starting at the trail head in Landmannalaugar has the benefit of conquering most of the elevation in the first two stages and from there on, the rest of the trail is rather flat. That’s the reason why most of the hikers choose this option, myself included — and why I’ll use this direction as the standard route in the following. For me personally it was perfect to start with the more challenging part in the beginning. Also I loved how during the last stage slowly but surely the vegetation became more and suddenly there were trees again haha, felt a bit like arriving „home“…or at least being welcomed back into a life-friendly environment.
From Thorsmörk (B) to Landmannalaugar (A):
If you choose Landmannalaugar and its hot springs as a highlight at the end, your route will be more challenging. As a reward, it can be a bit less crowded in the mornings, as most others do it north to south. No matter which direction you’ll choose — the views are obviously the same.
Duration & elevation gain
Landmannalaugar (start) — Hrafntinnusker Hut (☆) — Alftavatn Hut (⌂) — Emstur Hut (⌂) — Thorsmörk (end)
The length of the official Laugavegur trail is about 54 kilometers, although Komoot says I hiked 52,8 km. Besides slightly different lengths, the elevation of 1.010m up & 1.400m down matches the official informations. As you can see, most of the steepest parts (marked in orange and red) are during the first two stages. All in all it’s a relatively flat trail — and for me the trail was relatively easy, as most of the steeper parts were followed by longer flat parts. And I really don’t have the best stamina haha.
Additional Stages — Fimmvörðuháls
If you want you can extend the trail by adding more stages to it. The most common one is the so called Fimmvörðuháls trail. It leads from Thorsmörk (the area where the Laugavegur officially ends) towards Skogar. The extra 27 kilometers aren’t as „easy“ as the Laugavegur — as it includes 1.300 meter of height in elevation and crossing a glacier. You have the option to stop by Baldvinsskáli hut, but as camping can be quite rough there it’s very common to finish it within one day. Sadly I cannot share any personal experience with you as very heavy rain was predicted when I reached Thorsmörk — and also additionally I had quite some respect of doing this hike all by myself.
Weather
The elements can be very challenging in Iceland in general — especially out there in the Highlands. Hiking the trail safely is very depending on the weather. The conditions can change rapidly, therefore planning for the worst case scenario beforehand can literally save your life.
So you better know about all eventual weather scenarios that may or may not could happen. I’m not just talking about bad weather like blizzards, whiteouts, (sand) storms, heavy rainfall BUT also the possibility of loads of strong sunlight or even sweating heat. Also make sure to either ask the hut wards for the forecast or regularly check it yourself — if you have reception.
Phone reception
Talking about reception…it will not be constant along the trail. I obviously didn’t look at my phone all the time but in some regions there wasn’t one for quite a while. But I also oftentimes was quite surprised about how well the internet connection worked in some parts. So just expect a bit of everything. And better tell your loved ones beforehand that they might not be able to contact you for the next few days.
Safety
If you wanna be extra cautious, tell your family and friends about your route, the stages, when you expect to be where and the date you expect to finish the trail. I for example sent my friends a list with the dates I plan to finish the different stages and also alternative itinerary depending on the weather — so they were informed about all possibilities. While you’re already at it: You can also share all these information with your trusted contacts via the SAFETRAVEL travel plan. There’s also an option for a monitored travel plan, where the experts will take steps to contact you or alert emergency services if you fail to check in as planned for each day.
The Icelandic emergency number is 112. Also GPS emergency transmitter can safe lives in areas without connection.
Will it be crowded?
I can only speak for the few days I’ve been on the trail but I definitely didn't expect to share the trail with that many people. And I don’t mean this in a negative way. For me personally it was still not too crowded. As I was solo-hiking, it was quite good to know that there were other people walking behind me — just in case I’d have an accident. The campgrounds were quite packed, but as they stretch over quite big areas it never felt too „full“ and I still had enough space for my tent & my privacy.
However I can imagine that during a period of extremely good weather it can be very busy, especially with guided groups.
Getting there
Landmannalaugar — aka either the start or the end of the trail — is located in the middle of the Highlands, I’d always recommend to only go there with bigger 4x4 cars or by bus. As the Laugavegur is not a loop trail I’d recommend to take the bus from one of the cities along the ring road (e.g. Reykjavik, Selfoss or Hella), where you can also park your rental car in a safe place. I’d recommend to hop on in Hella or even Hvolsvöllur — the more to the east, the shorter & cheaper the bus ride.
There are several bus providers with a slightly difference in ticket pricing. I ended up booking with TREX and chose to take the bus from Hella for 8.999 ISK (≈62 Euro/71 USD /52 GBP). The bus leaves from the bus station close to the supermarket parking lot. Do not park there, parking on the other side of the road is free. Another famous provider is Reykjavik Excursions.
Got the last return ticket of the day — and probably the best view, directly besides the driver seat hehe.
Getting back
Depending on where you’re ending your trip, your return ticket would probably be either from Thorsmork with departures at Volcano Huts/Húsadalur, Langidalur Hut and Básar Hut or from Skogar if you add the Fimmvörðuháls stages. I didn’t book that one in advance because I wasn’t sure if I’d finish the trail in three or four days or about staying longer in Thorsmork afterwards — so I reserved the very last available return ticket of the day from my finish point at Húsadalur just after arriving there.
That being said: If you have strict travel plans after the trail or simply wanna make sure you get a seat, rather book it in advance. I chose Reykjavik Excursions and paid 9.499 ISK for the 2 hours long drive from Húsadalur (≈65 Euro/75 USD /55 GBP).
Navigation
As long as the weather allows it, following the trail is easily possible without any map. There is no section that isn’t marked well enough or trail isn’t clearly visible — at least after the first few brave hikers paved the way through the snow haha. But even with the snow being still a few meters thick in some parts at the end of June, I didn’t have any problems navigating or spotting the next signposts. In some parts the trail even leads along some F-Roads (what Icelandic Highland roads are called).
Still: The weather can be challenging and blocking your view, making it hard to navigate. There’s several memorials for hikers who didn’t make it — one got lost in a snowstorm and died just a few hundred meters away from the hut. Never forget: the highlands can be tricky. So better always download the map/trail to be safe — I planned and tracked it via Komoot and it worked pretty well.
Trail Condition
Snowfields: As the trail opens in the early summer hiking (end of June) during the first days or weeks you will most likely come across long but „safe“ snow fields, while the melting over time causes hazardous snow bridges in some parts. Always make sure to be extra cautious for crevasses and creeks. During warmer days the snow fields can become very slushy and hiking through that may causes wet feet and/or makes it a bit more tiring.
Condition: In the second stage there’s some steeper parts while hiking through the geothermal areas/reolite mountains. I can imagine these parts to get slippery and/or very muddy during and after rainy days. Also I experienced this type of earth being extremely sticky to the soles, causing to loose grip, so using poles can be crucial here.
River Crossings
Talking about poles: For some rivers there are bridges but it is a must to cross rivers by foot. I was a bit anxious about that part, but in the end it was less frightening than I thought. Here are some tips:
Most of the rivers are freezing cold — still better do not rush things and be cautious.
If not for the grip, I’d still always recommend using poles — that way you can check the depth of the water. They also give you more stability and prevent you from slipping and causing all of your stuff and yourself getting soaked, sooo better use them.
Footwear cannot prevent you from feeling the cold water but they can add to your safety. The stones in the river beds can be either slippery or hurt a lot. I saw people doing the crossings barefoot, in water shoes, in slippers (like myself) or even simply in their hiking boots. Either way: make sure whatever your wearing will stay on your feet even in fast moving water.
Here you can see it pretty good: The spot of the crossing is a wider section of the river. The other two pictures show the first river to cross (close to Alftavatn) & the last one in Thorsmörk.
There will be several bigger and smaller rivers. To find the perfect spot to cross them, you should stay away from narrow parts and rather watch out for wide and flat parts with as less currents as possible.
Thanks to the melting glaciers, volcanic activity or rain, the river levels can change rapidly from day to day or due to changing weather even within hours. If you want some up-to-date information, better always ask the stuff at the huts — they receive the weather forecast daily.
If you’re hiking solo, I’d recommend to always wait for other hikers to be in sight when going through — just in case.
Last but not least: Bring a small micro fibre towel just for your feet, wet socks suck!
Volcanic Activity & Glacier Floodings
Iceland is THE land of fire and ice. Hiking along the Laugavegur will give you a good feeling about that — from ice and snow you have to cross, to the hot springs and long extinct volcanoes. While the volcanic activity around Landmannalaugar is rather low, the more south you go, the closer you get to a more active area (roughly starting from Emstrur hut area and including the whole Thorsmörk region). Remember the eruption of the Eyjafjallajökull in 2010? This sub-glacial volcano hides underneath the big glacier that’s towering above the Thorsmörk area, just like its even bigger neighbor Katla — which is long overdue. While it erupted every 70-80 years in the past, the last eruption happened over 100 years ago. Sooo, that being said: Volcanic activity underneath a glacier causes massive and rapid flooding. This hazard IS possible at any given time and you should know how to behave in that case.
As the area is closely monitored. In any case of emergency the authorities will reach out to the huts immediately and these in turn fire warning signals that warn hikers. In this case, you should protect yourself from the possible sudden floods by avoiding rivers and streams and instead climbing heights and mountains.
Costs of Huts & Camping
I’d say the experience along the trail will definitely vary a lot, depending on how you choose to spend the night. I had quite good weather, so I wasn't jealous of the hut-people at all haha. But that can obviously vary in more harsh weather conditions. So, if you’re flexible in your dates of doing the trail, I’d always recommend to bring a tent. If you have a tight schedule or rather just feel safer in a comfortable bed — prepare yourself and your wallet for quite a bit of an expense.
Sleeping in the Huts
The more comfortable but also much more expensive way to accommodate along the trail would be staying in the huts. They have different sizings tho and also the spots are booked out relatively fast. Sooo, I guess you have to be lucky. Prizes are…rather expensive compared to sleeping in a tent — but you’re in the middle of raw nature, so I guess it’s still quite fair?
Cost per night & person:
Landmannalaugar (trail head) 15.800 ISK ≈ 109 EUR / 126 USD / 93 GBP
Hrafntinnusker 15.800 ISK ≈ 109 EUR / 126 USD / 93 GBP
Álftavatn OR alternatively Hvanngil 15.800 ISK ≈ 109 EUR / 126 USD / 93 GBP
Emstrur 15.800 ISK ≈ 109 EUR / 126 USD / 93 GBP
Langidalur (end of trail) 15.800 ISK ≈ 109 EUR / 126 USD / 93 GBP OR alternatively Volcano Huts (prices vary)
Fimmvörðuháls /Baldvinsskáli (additional stage towards Skogar) 15.000 ISK ≈ 104 EUR / 120 USD / 88 GBP
That would make a total of:
3 nights: I’d recommend Álftavatn, Emstrur & Langidalur or Volcano Huts) 47.400 ISK ≈ 328 EUR / 380 USD / 280 GBP
4 nights: Add 1 night at the trail head (OR the cheaper addition to Skogar) 63.200 ISK ≈ 438 EUR / 507 USD / 372 GBP
5 nights: From Landmannalaugar to Skogar 78.200 ISK ≈ 542 EUR / 627 USD / 461 GBP
Camping
Wild camping is forbidden all around Iceland and along the Laugavegur you HAVE TO camp at the huts and pay a fee at the reception and add a sticker to your tent. Still, you can connect with the highland nature way more and get a real feeling of the Icelandic nature. So would always recommend to skip the hut booking struggle and just plan to sleep in the tent.
Btw, you can pay your fee with card in all locations.
Cost per night & person: 3.200 ISK ≈ 22 EUR / 25 USD / 19 GBP (prices are the same for all huts)
3 nights: 9.600 ISK ≈ 66 EUR / 77 USD / 56 GBP
4 nights: 12.800 ISK ≈ 88 EUR / 102 USD / 75 GBP
5 nights: 16.000 ISK ≈ 110 EUR / 128 EUR / 94 GBP
Additional fees:
Shower: 1.000 ISK ≈ 7 EUR / 8 USD / 6 GBP
Facility fee: 700 ISK ≈ 5 EUR / 5,60 USD / 4 GBP (if you just stop by to use the toilet but not staying overnight)
Stores
Some of the huts have small „shops“. Although that’s a big word…they rather have a small selection of stuff like powerbanks, gas or very basic trail food. I would NOT recommend to rely on that as they don’t get restock regularly. You can pay by card in all locations.
Restaurants
Something that’s still a bit funny to me is the fact that there is in fact the opportunity to eat in a restaurant/bar along the trail. You’ll find it at Alftavatn hut. It’s run by the team of the Volcano Huts — another hut/campground/restaurant in the Thorsmörk area at the end of the trail.
Opening dates can change with the weather, but it’s open daily from 11:30 till 23:00 between end of June and early September. Bigger groups should reserve their seats.
MENU:
Take-away lunch 11:30-22:00: Sandwich, chocolate bar, fresh fruit, juice box (not sure if there’s a vegan option)
Lunch 11:30-17:00: Soup, salad and bread - vegan option
Dinner 18:00-22:00: Casserole with Chili con Carne, rice and vegetables - vegan option
I didn’t eat at the restaurant at Alftavatn but I indeed treated myself with a vegan „LavaBurger“ & fries at the Volcano Huts as I finished the last stage. It was rather basic, but it was yummy (3.500 ISK ≈ 24 EUR /28 USD / 21 GBP). I guess the prices at Alftavatn will be similar if not a bit more.
My trail experience + Information about the stages
Stage 1: Landmannalaugar to Hrafntinnusker | 9,85 km | ⬈ 530m ⬊ 100m | took me 4 hours
My Laugavegur experience started with an early wake up call at the Gaddstadaflatir campground. It’s very basic and has no showers, but a indoor kitchen and it’s very close to the bus station/parking lot in Hella — the spot where I hopped onto the highland bus towards Landmannalaugar. The ticket said you have to be there 30 minutes before the departure. In the end we had a delay of one hour — Icelandic punctuality haha, better don’t expect to start your hike at a certain time.
The route from Hella to Landmannalaugar took us about 2 hours — and the road F225 was pretty spectacular!
In Landmannalaugar I finished the food I prepared the day before, stopped by at the last toilet (remember the fee of 700 ISK) and enjoyed the good weather. If you haven’t been here before, I’d definitely recommend to stay here for one night to have enough time to explore the area with all its lava fields, geothermal areas and colorful mountains.
Landmannalaugar (trail head)
Loads of beautiful hikes in the area — e.g. the top of Mount Bláhnúkur (7km loop trail, 377 elevation)
Hot springs for free
Rather crowded with loads of day visitors and other campers that don’t do the Laugavegur
Tent pitch area: without grass, small rocks, not sheltered from the winds at all but very flat
Mobile connection: Yes
So eventually at 12pm I started the trail by walking along some to me well known sceneries. Somehow it felt very weird to know, that I’d now hike this trail all by myself, knowing that everything I need to survive in the „wild“ was packed & carried on my back. And that at some point there wouldn’t be an option to just quit this adventure and turn around. But I just pushed these thoughts away and enjoyed the sunny views instead.
The first section towards Brennisteinsalda mountain was rather busy, as the area is also frequented by a lot of day visitors and apparently there was some kind of trail running event happening, so it was extra busy. But as soon as I left Brennisteinsalda behind, the first snow field of the trail awaited me — and less and less people were on the same mission as I. To my surprise it was easier to walk in the already paved trails in the snow than I thought. And gosh, it was also way warmer than I could’ve imagined. Gladly I went for wearing layers so I eventually was hiking in a t-shirt while wearing a cap and sunnies and stopped every once in a while to re-apply sun protection. It was so warm, one guy decided to take his shirt off completely — just to give you an idea.
After conquering a few snow fields I arrived at the first geothermal area:
At 4pm, four hours after my first steps, I made it to the Hrafntinnusker Hut. Spent half an hour here for a quick break, paid the hut wards a visit, asked for the weather forecast and used the toilets. I enjoyed an apple and a snack on their terrace, had a chat with a fellow hiker and admired the views — while trying to spot where the trail may lead towards in the far distance.
Hrafntinnusker (1st hut along the trail)
The hut at the highest altitude along the official trail
Still surrounded by big snow fields end of June
No showers, no bins
(I did not sleep here & only paid the toilet a visit)
Tent pitch area: without grass, either on sand, gravel or even snow, ground is rather hard, sheltered a bit by small stone walls — heard it can be pretty windy here
Mobile connection: Not really
Stage 2: Hrafntinnusker to Álftavatn | 10,9 km | ⬈ 70m ⬊ 550m | took me 5 hours
The following stage started as the last one ended: with endless snowfields. As the sunlight and the warmth of the day had done their work by now, it was rather slushy. Although I could clearly see the path a few hundred meters in front of me, but due to the big snow fields I couldn’t quite figure out or see where it will take me exactly, so it was a nice surprise. Another surprise was the growing heat. The snow not only blinded my eyes — I don’t know how people could manage to see without sun glasses —, it also made me to take several smaller breaks so re-apply sun screen. So, another friendly reminder for you: Be prepared for everything in the highlands! After one steeper part I took a little break to admire the views once again — and met a little feathered friend, one of the very few animals I came across along the trail.
Shortly after I left my little bird friend behind, the landscape changed rapidly. The snow got less and less, as I arrived in the second big geothermal area along the trail. The gravel here can get quite muddy and slippery in certain areas and sometimes it also got very sticky, too. Hiking poles came in very handy in the short but steeper parts!
Right after that, the whole scenery changed again, this time even more. The landscape opened up and from the rhyolite plateau I got to overlook the wide valley. I spent a little while here, just admiring the green rolling hills, the vast glaciers and the first sight of Lake Álftavatn and the hut right in front — my goal for the day. But before reaching it, I had to master a few more obstacles: Firstly, I wanted to capture myself within these landscapes. I still had plenty of time, so I decided to find a trustworthy rock to place my camera upon. I actually didn’t bring a tripod, so it’s always a bit of a struggle to find a good angle. Secondly; the steepest part of the trail. Not sure why, but my legs felt very wobbly in this part. Didn’t take that many pictures along this part, as I was afraid of slipping with my camera in my hands haha. But this was my view the whole time — looking at the first small river I had to crossing, the third obstacle haha. To my surprise it was secured with a steel cable, so there’s no need for poles here. And after those sweating past hours it felt actually quite refreshing.
From there on I absolutely enjoyed every step, even though the mosquitoes tried giving me a hard time. But I didn’t care, because sun was finally moving closer towards the horizon and the looong golden hour started. And look at that gorgeous alpen (or rather highland) glow! The mountains in the back looked even more beautiful than during daylight. Of course I had to stop and use a small bush as tripod — if you look closely, you can see the mosquito family photobombing. Several of these sessions slowed me down for at least 1-2 hours in total during the first day, but: You only regret the photos you didn’t take :)
After a total of ten hours (from 12:00 - 22:00) along the trail, I reached the end of the first two stages. Checked in at the reception, asked for the weather forecast, pitched my tent and then prepared some food, before soaking in the pretty light conditions, taking a few more pictures and then finally falling asleep to the sound of the little river as the best white noise.
Álftavatn (my favorite)
Found a camp spot right next to the little river
Heard it can be very windy here
An additional walk around Lake Álftavatn closeby is recommended — if you have the time
Tent pitch area: is flat, covered by grass, right next to a small river, no covered seating areas for campers, a small covered „kitchen“ area with two sinks (cold water)
Mobile connection: Yes
Stage 3: Álftavatn to Emstur | 15,8 km | ⬈ 190m ⬊ 260m | took me 4,5 hours
The next morning I had some light breakfast and a little chat with two other hikers and I decided to join them till the first river crossing of the day. We left the hut at 9:00. The water was surprisingly smooth and there weren’t any struggles — still, those moments are not only perfect to connect with others, but also I felt way safer with someone around. After that, we said goodbye, they rushed away in their tempo and I continued to walk alone and a bit slower — still way faster than the groups haha.
As you can see, the weather on this day was different, rather cloudy and somehow I witnessed a weird fog-like layer at the horizon — the few times the mountains weren’t in the way. And then I realized, that it’s not foggy — it’s sandy. I’ve seen quite a few sand storms during the last few days along the ring road due to strong winds. But then I was inside my car and safe. So I was a bit worried and decided to ask the hut ward of Hvanngil, if she had any tipps or if it was even safe to go further.
Hvanngil (alternative to Álftavatn)
Located 3,8 km/1,5 hours further south from Álftavatn, this hut/campground could work as a less windy alternative
I didn’t stay here, so I cannot say much more except that I preferred the surroundings of the campground right next to the lake much more
Tent pitch area: Sheltered from wind by natural lava stone walls
Mobile connection: Not that good
She told me that I should protect my nose and mouth (gladly I brought my buff!) and that my eyes should be fine thanks to my glasses. Other than that it would be just annoying, but not dangerous. And oh yes, annoying it was. The next few kilometers I could only see a few hundred meters and because I was anxious about my camera, I took barely any photos.
During this stage I also passed the widest and deepest river of the trail. Although the hut ward told me, that it would be better to cross it 100 meters upstream, I still decided to do it right at the road. Because, again, there were more people and otherwise I would have been all by myself — and the current seemed very strong. This was actually the first crossing in which I was VERY happy that I had hiking poles with me, as the water was way faster, the river much wider than the ones before and the freezing cold water reached the middle of my upper thigh — although it looks rather narrow in the phone snap:
To be honest, I rushed through these kilometers and just wanted to reach the next hut to finally (and hopefully) escape the sand. Also I did not really enjoy walking on the F-roads — even though I only saw one or two cars in total. It somehow took away the feeling of being in nature. And so I arrived at Emstur after 4,5 hours of speed walking — and covered with surprisingly little amounts of dust and sand.
Emstur
Is surrounded by mountains, so a bit sheltered in general
This is the only hut with a big sheltered tent with benches and tables inside, so you can cook in every weather
Tent pitch area: Even more sheltered as it’s located inside a little river valley. Most of the pitches are surrounded by grass but you’re advised to set it up in the dirt areas instead. The ground was rather soft and there are a bunch of smaller and bigger stones to support your stakes.
Mobile Connection: Only on the hill along the road above the hut
As I arrived quite early, the reception was still closed for the staffs lunch break, so I joined two guys from Seattle who I came across since the very first few kilometers of the trail and we talked about fun stuff like politics. Then after checking in, I found myself a cute little space for my tent, right next to the river, cooked some dinner before I walked back on the closeby hill to get some phone connection haha. Then I actually went to bed early, as there was some rain predicted for the next afternoon and I wanted to reach the very last river crossing before it arrived.
Stage 4: Emstur to Thorsmörk | 15,9 km | ⬈ 270m ⬊ 540m | took me 4,5 hours
Well…I wanted to leave the campground earlier, but in the end I started the last stage at the same time as the last one — again at 9:00 haha. Somehow hearing the sounds of small rivers makes me extra sleepy — or extra hard to wake up. As soon as I arrived at the other side of the little valley, I stopped at these signs that very ignored by most of the hikers.
The sign also said:
„Sound Bombs and Beacons: If a volcanic eruption in Katla is confirmed by researchers, all neighboring tourist areas will be notified. In summer, in the highlands, guards at most mountain huts will fire sound bombs and beacons into the air to warn travelers. Please note older meltwater traces (see map) and stay high up on the slopes when a volcanic eruption is warned of as described.“
For me this information wasn’t that surprising — but that there was no other sign before, while this one was looking rather old and not up to date, in fact was.
The further I walked, the weather got more and more gloomy. But and again, the landscape began to change. From the more desert-like mountain scenery of the third stage, slowly but surely the lush green moss took over and the trail leads from one canyon to another. Gladly here you don’t have to cross the narrow but powerful rivers by foot and can admire the views from a bridge (if you’re not afraid of heights). From there on the views change with almost every step and around every corner and behind every little hill there’s another pretty new angle towards the glaciers in the distance. During the last few kilometers you again have to walk on „roads“ paved by cars but somehow I enjoyed it more this time. Maybe because with every step also the vegetation become more and more again. I remember being extra happy about seeing the first tree in three days haha.
After crossing one last small (but very high!) wooded bridge over a canyon that’s only barely visible due to all the trees and bushes covering it, there was only one real river crossing left to do. I met a women from Ireland and we had a little chat and I told her, that I was a bit afraid of this last river — as I heard it can be the most challenging. Gladly that day it was very calm and together we found the perfect spot to cross it.
Then finally, after getting a bit lost in the forest — I reached my chosen goal at 13:30.
Thorsmörk — Volcano Huts (end)
the whole area is very pretty — if you can, plan to spend at least one more night here
the restaurant has vegan options and the food is very yummy, although rather basic and not the cheapest
Tent pitch area: All covered by grass, sheltered by bushes and there are warm showers and a fully equipped indoor kitchen!
Mobile Connection: Good! They even have free Wifi!
Gear & Packing List
Backpack
Finding a backpack that fits all your needs can be quite a challenge — but it’s essential . After hiking the Kungsleden trail in 2022 I had one goal for this hike: Efficiently minimizing the volume and weight on my back.
My choice: the Kakwa 55l* which Dan from Durston was so kind to equip me with (*ad + an honest recommondation). I must say, I was a bit skeptical about the whole ultralight backpack situation, because there must be any kind of downside, right? So before heading to Iceland I tested it on smaller hikes to get a feeling for it and well…since then it’s my main backpack even for hiking occasions. In the size small, the Dyneema material version makes only 900 g and feels as light as a feather. The hip and chest belts along with the light frame provide the needed support to balance out the weight perfectly. While walking and even hiking steeper parts I don’t have the feeling that the weight on my back and shoulders is holding me back, like I experienced it with other backpacks in the past.
Tent
As I was solo hiking I didn’t have the space to bring my MSR hubba hubba tent. Instead I got to test the Durston X-mid Pro 1*, a ultralight one-person tent that’s surprisingly rain- and stormworthy — as the 1,5 weeks of camping all around Iceland before starting the Laugavegur trail had proven me. It’s designed to be spacious (with my height of 1.58m I could fit my backpack inside on extra rainy days) but it also packs smaller than any other one person tent. That’s because other than usual tents, it doesn’t come with tent poles — instead you use your hiking poles to set it up! As you should bring them anyway, it saves so much unnecessary weight and space. In total the tent in the Dyneema fabric version including 4-5 stakes and the pack sack weight about 560 g.
At first its patented geometry look may look a bit confusing, but setting it up couldn’t be easier. It took me a few takes to set it up properly, but once I figured it out, it’s up within maybe 1-2 minutes. First you lay out the tent flat, then you fix it by using one stake in every corner, then you set it up, using the poles. Done!
(*Sponsored + an honest recommendation)
Hiking poles
So as I mentioned before, hiking poles are almost a must have for this trail. But besides for the river crossings, I also had to bring them for my tent. Other than those two reasons, using them can really help to balance the weight on your hips and shoulders, especially when you’re not used to carry a fully loaded trekking backpack. As every outdoor gear they come in a huge price range, but I’d say, there an item that works very fine even in the cheaper versions. I heard Decathlon has great ones for example. I used my old ones by Komperdell called Ridgehiker Cork with (surprise!) cork handles which I really like as they don’t ever feel sweaty. which I found out were not that reliable anymore…but they still did a great job at keeping me and my tent safe.
My cute little tent surrounded by the prettiest mountains at Alftavatn campground during golden hour.
Sleeping bag
There’s nothing worse than waking up in the middle of the night, freezing and shivering in your sleeping bag. Been there, done that — and a good night’s sleep can make or break your trip. So while reducing some weight, I didn’t want to compromise on comfort. I opted for Mammut Women Perfom Down -10 which is filled with 100% recycled down and therefore slightly lighter (1092g) than my old one, that’s filled with synthetic fiber. I really like the soft fabric in the upper part and didn’t feel cold once! Also I can recommend to buy more expensive gear like this second hand, just like I did hehe, thanks Frauki!
Sleeping mat
Just as important for a cozy night is the perfect sleeping mat. With the Therm-A-Rest NeoAir Xlite I finally found the one that packs super small (about the size of a water bottle) and is also light, warm, comfy, quiet (don’t underestimate the sounds these mats can produce just by moving an inch) and and fully inflated super quickly. Mine is actually the older version which I cannot find anywhere on the internet anymore haha, but the newer version called NXT is improved and must be even better. I also got the shorter version because I’m small — and it’s even lighter than the normal length. The only downside for me personally is the very bright yellow color haha. It only weighs 437g.
Clothes
As the trail is relatively short I didn’t bring that much clothes in total, but focused on packing all the layers I may or may not need. So besides must haves like socks and undies, I wore/packed:
hiking boots (I’d recommend higher ones which cover your ankles as there’s the possibility of high snow and storms blowing sand into your shoes…)
one pair of hiking leggings
3 three t-shirts (I planned with one per day)
base layers (long sleeve & leggins — either a warmer alternative to a t-shirt while hiking or very comfy during the night)
one fleece (I did not really wear this while hiking during the day, but in the evenings & used it as a pillow at night)
my Patagonia DAS Parka to stay extra warm in a case of emergency or during the night
rainjacket for rain and wind protection (mostly wore this + a t-shirt or the long sleeve)
gloves and beanie (just in case it gets REALLY cold — didn’t need them in the end, but they’re a MUST in my opinion)
cap and sunnies (much needed! would’ve ended up with a massive headache if I would’ve look into the bright snow without protection for a whole day)
buff (usually I don’t like to wear these, but I was glad I brought it — to cover my face from the sand storm)
slippers (for river crossings and to rest my feet after a long day of hiking)
Cosmetics and stuff
I guess I don’t have to mention the basics like tooth brush and so on haha
sun protection (even if it’s not sunny, the snow fields can still reflect light. also the midnight sun never really sets, so it’s almost 24 hours of light and UV-rays)
dry shampoo (not really needed if you either take a shower along the way or the weather isn’t as sweaty…but I hate to clean my hair with ice cold water, so this makes me feel way more comfortable)
first aid kit (consists of regular stuff like
wet wipes (can come in handy to clean your face and body if you don’t plan to shower along the trail)
one small micro fiber towel (for my feet after the river crossings) & a bigger one for refreshing
Camping gear
to cook I brought my Primus Lite+ (I’m very happy with it BUT I have to mention that the little wire of the inbuilt burner broke off on day two…so by now I’d need to bring a lighter, matches or fire steel as well)
one small gas cartridge
one spoon
one garbage bag, as I wasn’t sure if I could leave garbage behind at the huts
two small water bottles (it’s not thaaat easy to find drinkable water along the trail, so I refilled both of them at the huts)
Camera equipment & electronics
my beloved Canon EOS R5
two lenses (EF 100-400mm for the closer shots — necessary in my opinion! — & EF 35mm for the details and wider angles)
four camera batteries in total
nite core powerbank (this one has 10.000mhA, enough to fully charge my phone at least three times)
Downloads: Komoot Laugavegur Trail & Iceland Map on GoogleMaps
Definitely a thing NOT to bring on a trail, but I also brought my iPad because I wasn’t sure if I’d stay one or even two nights in the Thorsmörk area and would’ve needed to work from there :D
Food
A hiking-diet can be pretty…let’s call it unbalanced. Even though I didn’t plan to spend too many days off the grid I still wanted to make sure to not get bored by my food choices, to get good nutritions and not to get hangry about myself because I didn’t pack enough.
Breakfast
I’m not really a breakfast person & don’t like to hike with a full tummy. So I ate small portions:
Small packs of oatsome smoothie bowls (can be prepared with hot or cold water) + an apple a day
Snacks/Lunch
During the midday I didn't cook along the trail but kept lunch rather simple:
Real Cranberry Protein Bars* & Clif Bars
Dinner
Real Turmat*: I packed five meals, just in case I’d stay one day longer or if I’d be extra hungry. My favorite taste has to be Squash but I also took Asian Curry, Red Thai Curry and Chilistew with me.
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Weight
In total my backpack weight about 12,5 kilograms (including 2 liters of water and the iPad haha) and so I could reduce the weight by 7,5 kilograms compared to the backpack I brought to my one week long Kungsleden hike. Not bad, right?
In conclusion…
…I’m beyond happy I could tick this trail off my bucket list. Even more, I’m very proud of myself for doing it all by myself! Compared to my 7 days long trekking experience from the Kungsleden-Trail, I have to say that the hiking in Sweden overall felt a bit more connected to nature, wilder, more off the grid. The fact that on the Laugavegur you have to get in touch with nature by crossing rivers by foot adds to the feeling of being in the wilderness. But then, for certain amounts of times you walk along or even ON F-Roads, which made it feel a bit…off for me. Also some groups had their luggage carried from hut to hut by car — which says it all. Still the landscape is gorgeous and I can imagine to do it again some time in the future — maybe then with friends and later during summer.